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Cambodia Town-Long Beach PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Sunday, 02 December 2007

Well, I have only been back a week and it was hard week trying to reacclimatize back to being home and figuring out what time it really was. I had such a case of jet lag but it seems to be settling down. I was exhausted most of the week and contemplated not doing a Trip of the Week. But I always find it important to stay on task and to get back into my routine as quickly as possible to ensure a smooth transition.

Aside from the yearly exotic backpacking trips, part of the fun is planning and coordinating the trip. Once I go on the trip, I learn so much about the culture, history, music, food, and political climate, and education that no book could teach me. Upon return to the states, I want to savor my trip and with my new found education, want to delve more deeply into that culture.

With that said, upon returning I had known there was a Little Saigon in Orange County which I have wanted to visit. But, I learned that Long Beach is home to our very own Cambodia Town. Since Long Beach was a bit closer I opted to investigate this ethnic area in Long Beach. But no worries…I will be visiting Little Saigon within the next few weeks!

Cambodia Town (also known as Little Phnom Penh or Little Cambodia) is the official name for a roughly one mile long business corridor along Anaheim Street between Atlantic and Junipero avenues Long Beach, California. This area has numerous Cambodian restaurants, clothing stores, and jewelry stores. Churches, temples, and service centers for Cambodian-Americans are also found in the area. In addition, there are many more general businesses in the area, such as auto repair shops, that are also Cambodian-owned.

With approximately 50,000 Cambodians in Long Beach and surrounding communities, Long Beach is home to the second largest population of Cambodian immigrants outside of Cambodia, and the city has its own Cambodian Consulate. Many of the Cambodians in Long Beach came to the United States as refugees from Cambodia from 1975 to 1979, as well as the 1978 invasion and occupation of Cambodia by Vietnam.

Prior to my visiting this ethnic neighborhood I did my research to see what restaurants and markets were in the area. I always enjoy visiting local ethnic markets where you can buy ethnic food you would not be able to find in regular chain supermarkets. In addition, I always find that food, whether restaurant or market, is truly a cultural experience. I found a listing of about 4 markets and 6 restaurants. The market I went to was truly Cambodian and South East Asia. I felt like I was back on my trip again with a meat market selling Eel, Pork stomach, frozen Grubs, and host of rice’s and noodles along with tropical fruit. After browsing the market, I went to lunch at one of the many Cambodian Restaurants. The one I went to was called Siem Reap Restaurant. I chose this one because I had just been in Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor Wat. I ordered what most consider to be the national dish of Cambodia-Amok. It was as good as the one I had a few weeks ago in Phnom Penh.

After my culinary experiences at the restaurant and market I then walked up and down Anaheim street passing numerous stores selling Cambodian goods or offering Cambodian Services.

I’ve been to Long Beach a thousand times and never knew there was this one mile area known as Cambodia Town. But what’s the history? Why Long Beach?

In the early 1960's, the Cambodian government sent groups of student to the United States and most of them went to schools in Southern California such as CAL State-LA, CAL State-Long Beach and UCLA. In 1975, after Cambodia was taken over by the Khmer Rouge (a Cambodian Communist group), most of the students recognized the dangers of that regime and sought political asylum here. By April 17, 1975, the first refugee groups arrived, made up of the Cambodian diplomatic families living abroad, evacuated U.S. Embassy employees, and military personnel and their families. The U.S. Government brought them to Camp Pendleton, California for the immigration processing and they found sponsors in Southern California.

 

Shortly thereafter, in 1979 the Vietnamese invaded Cambodia and nearly 500,000 Cambodians sought refuge in Thailand. Due to the efforts of the displaced Cambodian students here, there was intense lobbying for the U.S. Congress to allow the Thai-based Cambodians refugees to seek political asylum in this country. Between 1980 and 1981, the students started to sponsor hundred of families and a great number of those Cambodian refugees settled in California, particularly Southern California. Years later, more and more moved to Long Beach because of the nice weather and entrepreneurial opportunities in the donut shop business.

 

The City of Long Beach is home to the largest population of Cambodians outside of Cambodia. The U.S. Census showed that of the approximate 84,000 Cambodians in California, over 20,000 were in Long Beach! Due to under-reporting, accurate population figures are unavailable, but it is reasonable to claim there are upwards of 30,000 Cambodians living within the Long Beach city limits. Combined with those living in neighboring Cerritos, Lakewood, Paramount, and in Greater L.A. and Orange counties, there may be upwards of 50,000 Cambodians in the area.

 

Since 1975, Cambodians have built their homes and businesses in Long Beach. Most Cambodians living in Long Beach, will work and shop in the immediate area of Anaheim Street between Junipero and Atlantic Avenue. Their homes, churches, temples, businesses, and service centers have created a community identified by most Cambodians here and throughout the rest of the world as the “Cambodian Capital of the United States.” On the weekends, hundreds of Cambodians from Southern California come to Anaheim Street to shop and visit with one another, recreating their homeland. No other population of Cambodians, outside of Cambodia, has attained this level of recognition.

 

The official naming of Cambodia Town is a recent happening which occurred just this year in 2007. It took several years of lobbying and council meetings to get the official recognition. Some wanted the area to be called Little Phnom Penh. Since Cambodians in Long Beach come from various parts of Cambodia, such as Battambang, Kompong Cham, Siem Reap, Pailin, and Phnom Penh, they chose “Cambodia Town” to honor the reality that local Cambodian-Americans came from many regions of Cambodia.

 

As I drove home, I had been able to savor my trip just a little longer. I felt like I was in Cambodia again. In addition, because of my trip, I found out that a whole little ethnic neighborhood was in my area and I was able to visit with a deeper appreciation and understanding of the culture, the food, the history.

 

 
Hollywood Forever Cemetery-Dia De Los Muertos PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Sunday, 28 October 2007

Halloween is quickly approaching and this weeks Trip of the Week is perhaps one of the more unusual trip. It may even seem a bit macabre to some until they fully understand the purpose! This week took us to Hollywood Forever Cemetery for a festival of Dia De Los Muertos! With Los Angeles’ rich Latino American population, there is no shortage of Dia De Los Muertos celebration.

Dia de los Muertos at Hollywood Forever cemetery was originally envisioned for the purpose of providing an authentic venue, in which this ancient tradition could be genuinely observed, celebrated and preserved. This event has provided a gateway for those who wish to re-acquaint themselves with their deeply rooted traditions and profoundly engage with one of the most devotional celebrations for the continuous cycle of life.

At the heart of this sacred event are the meticulously individually crafted altars and spiritual shrines. These dazzling private tributes and offerings which provide a linkage between ancient traditions and modern customs chronicle the perpetual relation between faith, family and history.

Home to the oldest memorial park in Hollywood dating back to 1899, Hollywood Forever is the only cemetery in the country which opens its gates and welcomes its surrounding community to commemorate El Dia de Los Muertos. The festival is focused on striving to bestow a memorable occasion by embracing the celebratory process of death and dying through providing a historically recognized cultural setting for this festive event and sacred observance. This community based event encompasses and visually illustrates a Pre- Columbian ancient jovial traditional view of death with a modern eclectic celebratory observance.

Dia De Los Muertos is one of Mexico's traditional holidays reuniting and honoring beloved ancestors, family and friends. It is an ancient and enduring ritual when the living commune with the dead – a mystical night when the veil is lifted between their two realms and they may share a day together.

The event, which admittedly was near impossible to find parking, began at 4 pm and is free to the public. The gates open and the mass of people are greeted by a mariachi band playing festive music. The main walk along the cemetery is a procession of altars decorated in typical and traditional style…some very elaborate and other more simple.

I have to admit, it was a bit emotional to see the families picnicking on the graves, singing, dancing, laughing, and retelling memories of their departed. In addition many of the grave altars have family photos and memorabilia. It was a bittersweet to see the photos that these people once lived full lives and were dead but definitely not forgotten. At the end of the procession of altars were several stages near the mausoleum which had continuous Latin American Music and dancing. My favorites were the drums and the Aztec Dancers. It was also here that I participated in getting my face painted in traditional “muertos” style. There was also food and drink to partake. It was quite a phenomenon and it was hard to remember that below are feet were thousands of graves, thousand of corpses and yet a party, a fiesta carried out above the mortal dead bodies. To some this may seem disrespectful or macabre, but I found it simply joyous and deeply moved.

For those who may not be as familiar with this celebration, the historical roots of this celebration date back to the pre-Hispanic cultures of Meso-America of the indigenous people, especially the Nahua (Aztecs, Mayans, Toltecas, Tlaxcaltec, Chichimec, Tecpanec) and others native to Mexico more than 3,000 years. When the Spaniards conquered the country, this indigenous custom was rooted so deeply that, after five centuries of colonization, it has continued to survive and remain as celebrated as in its first days.

Throughout each period in Mexican culture, death seems to hold no terror. In Mexican art, legends, and religion, death has not been a mysterious and fearful presence but a realistic recognizable character as much a part of life as life itself. Dia De Los Muertos expresses this perspective: it is not a mournful commemoration but a happy and colorful celebration where Death takes a lively, friendly expression and is not frightening or strange. There is no place for sorrow or weeping for this could be interpreted as a discourteous to the dead relatives who are visiting gladly.

Indigenous people believed that souls did not die, that they continued living in Mictlán (Place of Death) a special place for them to finally rest. On Dia De Los Muertos, tradition holds that the dead return to earth to visit their living relatives. It is believed that although these relatives can't see them, they can surely feel them.

As with many of our current Holidays, there is a blend between ancient tribal ceremonies and Catholic Holy Days. Ireland has a blend of Celtic and Catholic festivities for “Halloween”

November 2nd is the official date for Day of the Dead, although it is celebrated between October 31st and November 2nd. These dates correspond with the Catholic celebrations of All Saints Day and All Souls Day. This correspondence results from the Catholic Church's efforts to "find similarities between the indigenous and Christian beliefs." This celebration has a complex history that has been transformed through the years. Today the celebration takes place at about the same time ancient corn festivals were celebrated, when food from a plentiful harvest was shared with the deceased. Now certain customs vary within different regions. The best way to describe this holiday is to say it is a time when family members who have died are remembered. In Mexico, this festival is considered to be the most important holiday of the year.

Although this celebration is associated with the dead, it is not portrayed as a morbid or depressing time, but rather a period full of life, happiness, color, food, family, and fun. There is excitement everywhere. In many areas, outdoor markets are displayed in which they sell many symbolic goods, such as special breads, flowers, pottery, baskets, candles, paper puppets, candy skulls, etc. The main symbols of this holiday are skulls and skeletons, which are displayed throughout the cities. Scenes of skeletons hugging, marching, dancing, and laughing are seen in window displays on the streets. Marigolds are another significant symbol for the Day of the Dead festivity, and are known as the "flower of the dead." Their scent is believed to "attract the souls and draw them back."

People celebrate this holiday in their households, as well as in the cemeteries. In their homes, between Oct. 31st and Nov. 2nd (a time called "Todos Santos"), offerings of food and drink are prepared for the dead. "Ofrendas" (offerings) are often set up in the home on an altar displaying portraits, personal goods, clothing, favorite foods, and possessions of the deceased family member. Sometimes they are shown at the gravesites as well. On Nov. 2nd, family members visit the gravesites of their loved ones. They decorate their graves with flowers, enjoy picnics consisting of favorite foods of the deceased, and socially interact with others at the cemetery. This is an important social ritual that the Latino people see as "a way of recognizing the cycle of life and death that is human existence." In certain areas, an all-night candlelight vigil takes place by the graves of the family members. The whole occasion is festive, and everyone talks of the dead as if they were still alive. During this time, people "remember, re-live, and enjoy."

The common foods eaten on this holiday include pan de los muertos ("bread of the dead"), which is flat bread baked in the shape of skulls and crossbones. It is said to be good luck to be the one who bites into the plastic toy skeleton hidden by the baker in each loaf. Candy in the shape of skulls, skeletons, and coffins, and many favorite Mexican dishes (tamales, moles, chiles, enchiladas) are consumed as well.

This holiday is believed to "welcome the souls of the dead." The souls are said to return each year to enjoy the pleasures that they once had in life. They are thought to return to be with their living relatives for a few brief hours each year in this world, but come as spirits who have returned from another world. A widely held belief is that the souls of the children ("angelitos") return first, and food and gifts appropriate for their age and taste will be set out for them. Everything is in miniature: cups, plates, small breads, etc. The adult dead are said to return on Nov. 1st and they are given the most elaborate foods and drinks the family can afford. It is believed that the candle light, as well as the scents of the marigold flowers and the copal incense, help the returning souls find their way back. Sometimes paths of marigold petals are scattered by the family from the cemetery to the door of the house. The ghosts can find their way by following this yellow path. The ghosts (or spirits) are not usually seen, but their presence is felt.

There are folktales believed and told that say the dead spirits will get revenge on the living if they get poor treatment during these days each year. Leaving nothing (or inferior gifts) on the altar causes the spirits to be angry or sad. These superstitions inspire many people to participate in this holiday celebration for this very reason.

The Day of the Dead can range from an important cultural event, to a religious ceremony emphasizing the actual worship of the dead, to just a unique Mexican holiday symbolized by special foods and candy. In Mexico, the more urban the setting, the less the religious and cultural importance is recognized by the people. The more rural and "Indian" the setting, the greater is the religious importance of the holiday. Therefore, this celebration is usually of greater social importance in southern Mexico than in the northern part of the country.

Today, the Day of the Dead is a cherished, complex holiday celebration where death is seen as life. The common principle for this holiday is "whatever pleased the dead in life they are to have again." It is a holiday when the whole family comes together - both living and dead. This holiday festivity is believed to be a time for the departed to join the living in the celebrations of the "continuum of life."

As the sun set and the festivities increased, I have to admit, I left feeling that death is only a transition and that there is no fear in death and that what should be feared is not living life.

Last Updated ( Sunday, 28 October 2007 )
 
Faulkner Farm Pumpkin and Harvest Festival PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Sunday, 21 October 2007

There were several Pumpkin Festivals this weekend, one of which is the largest in Calabasas. Several of the more famous pumpkin patches and harvest festivals are in the northwest corner of Los Angeles County. Unfortunately, do to several fires many of the pumpkin patches including the Calabasas Pumpkin Festival were closed down.

In spite of this, I made it up to the very southern part of Ventura County to Santa Paula to the Pumpkin Patch and Harvest Festival at Faulkner Farm. Though getting there was a task due to several wild fires along the way. I had been to this pumpkin patch a few years ago but this time spent more time there and learned about the rich history of this farm

As for the pumpkin patch and harvest festival there is plenty to do for all ages. There are hay rides with historic information about the area, farm animals, pony rides, mini train rides, face painting, a country store, delicious food and great entertainment.

The food was excellent and included mouth-watering tri-tip, country chicken sandwiches, corn on the cob, pie, cookies and other great baked goods, caramel apples, delicious ice cream, refreshing lemonade, soft drinks, berry juice, and hot fresh-brewed coffee. Needless to say, I probably gained a few pounds just today!

The pumpkin patch and harvest festival is open everyweekend in October from 10 am to 5:30 pm and admission is $2 per person.

But what made it more interesting this time than “picking my own pumpkin” was learning about the rich history of the Faulkner Farm and touring the old farm house. This is a rare occasion for the farm to be open to the public.


The Faulkner Farm, purchased by the UC Hansen Trust in 1997, serves as the main venue for the agricultural and educational activities of the Trust. The farm has an interesting history and continues to be farmed. The staff is presently growing crops for educational field trips and other demonstrations. The research area of the farm is being utilized for various variety trials (to see what does best in this soil and climate conditions) and irrigation trials. The Trust is also continuing the long standing Faulkner Farm tradition of a Fall Pumpkin Harvest Festival. The Faulkner family lived on this property for over 100 years before it was purchased by the UC Hansen Trust. The house, built in 1894, is an outstanding example of Queen Anne style architecture and is listed on The National Register of Historic Places. The imposing red barn was originally built in 1886.

To understand the history of a place, one must start with the land. The Faulkner Farm lies in the fertile Santa Clara Valley in Ventura County. The Santa Clara River runs through the Valley, and mountains rise to the North and South of the Farm. The city of Santa Paula is just to the East. It is an ideal site for agriculture.

While no evidence has been found of Native American occupation on this particular piece of land, it would have been within the area inhabited by the Chumash Indians. With non-Native occupation of the land in the 18th century (first the Spanish and then the Mexicans), land was seen as a valuable commodity for ranching and agriculture. The Mexican government made many land grants to individuals for this type of use.

In the 1840s, Governor Alvarado conceded tracts of land to an aide, Manual Jimeno Casarin. Amongst them was a portion of land located near Santa Buenaventura and called Rancho Santa Paula y Saticoy. Casarin, who lived in Monterey, also held lands in Northern California. Unlike many land grants holders, Casarin was not required to show any use or development of the land and apparently he did not use the land, either for agriculture or ranching.

After the United States took possession of California in 1848 (and subsequent statehood in 1850), it was necessary for all land grants to be verified by U.S. Courts. Pending ratification, land continued to be sold. In fact, Rancho Santa Paula y Saticoy was sold several times before the verification by the U.S. Supreme Court in 1872. At first the buying and trading of the land was amongst land speculators, but in 1862 George Briggs, a farmer from Ohio, purchased the Rancho in order to plant orchards. His venture was not successful and he had the land surveyed into parcels. While he moved away after the land was sold, his name remains attached to the road which borders the Faulkner Farm on the east side.

Elisha Larson, a native of Norway, and his family, purchased at least two parcels of land in Ventura County. One of them was a 150 acre parcel sold to him by George Briggs on the Rancho Santa Paula y Saticoy. He built a house and barn, and raised corn and some barley, as well as raised hogs. He also planted trees, including an almond orchard.

George Washington Faulkner, known as G.W., was born in Ohio in 1846, the son of George and Julia Faulkner. In 1875 he married Rhoda Seymour, the daughter of Silas Seymour, a Methodist minister. She was also a graduate of Baldwin-Wallace College, a Methodist school in Ohio. Looking for a warmer climate, the couple considered moving to California. That same year, G.W. took the train to San Francisco 1875 to investigate the region.

He did indeed travel south, first to Santa Barbara and then to Ventura. While in the Ventura area he purchased seventy acres in New Jerusalem (near current Saticoy) and instructed Rhoda to join him. Accompanying her on the train was her sister Maria, who continued to live with the family until her marriage in the 1880s. On this farm G.W. raised barley, corn, and other crops. He also had orange, lemon and apple trees. A newspaper article published in early 1879 commented that the front yard was filled with flowers and ornamental shrubbery.


Later that year Faulkner expanded his holdings by buying Larson's 150 acres near Santa Paula for the sum of $6,000. By 1883 he was raising barley, beans, lima beans, corn, melons, strawberries, peaches, walnuts, wheat, potatoes, as well other fruits and trees. He became one of the largest lima bean growers in the area and a major apricot grower as well as experimenting with other crops.


G.W. and Rhoda had four children - daughters Alpha, Stella and Rhoda, and a son - Seymour. Rhoda died as a small child. Alpha married Farel Ayers and Stella married Elmer Outland. Seymour eventually married Faye Bean who died in childbirth; he later remarried. In 1911 G.W. and Rhoda divided their land into three equal parcels for their surviving children, retaining the house and the land immediately around it for their own use.


Faulkner was a staunch Republican. He and his wife were active in the Methodist church. It appears that much of their social life revolved around church activities.
When G.W. died in 1935, Seymour continued to work his portion of the land and live in the house. It was he who started the tradition of the fall pumpkin patch. He also had a stand of Christmas trees. Upon Seymour's death in 1981, the remaining acreage and the house were offered for sale. A great-grandson of the G.W. and Rhoda, Allan Ayers (the grandson of Alpha Faulkner) purchased the farm. They continued the tradition of the Fall Pumpkin Patch and Christmas trees. When Ayers and his wife decided to sell the property in the 1990s, it was purchased by the UC Hansen Trust "to sustain agriculture in Ventura County through research and education to benefit the community as a whole".

In 1886 Faulkner built the large barn familiar to visitors today. When they decided to build a larger house on the property in 1894, they located the new house closer to Telegraph Road. They engaged the services of Hermann Anlauf and Franklin Pierce as architects, as well as Anlauf's brother-in-law, George Nowak, as stone mason. Not a lot is known about these architects but several of their buildings survive in Ventura County. Of the surviving examples, the Faulkner House is the largest and most elaborate.

Built in Queen Anne Style, it consists of a basement, two main living floors, and an attic with a finished room in the tower. The house features a variety of woods, lincrusta, stained glass and built-in furniture.

So after the many times visitng this particular pumpkin patch it turned out to be more of a historical trip of the week learning about the over 100 year history of this farm!

 
Oak Glen Apple Harvest PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Sunday, 14 October 2007

In keeping with the theme from last week of fall festivals..this weeks Trip of the Week takes us 80 miles east of Los Angeles to the Apple Harvest of Oak Glen.

It may not be common knowledge that Southern California has an apple-producing region, but for those in the know, Oak Glen is a great road trip destination. Nestled high above the desert floor in a beautiful valley eighty miles east of Los Angeles are apple orchards planted over a century ago. Oak Glen is situated midway between Palm Springs and Big Bear. The elevation is about 5,000 feet and is ideal for the cultivation of apples.

Oak Glen welcomes tourists year-round with craft shops, restaurants, and fruit stands. Apple blossom time in spring is a magical time to visit, but "high season" is autumn, when visitors can choose from sixty varieties of apples in addition to pears, berries, and other fruits. For a hands-on experience, you can even pick your own.

Oak Glen, California, is a small apple growing community situated between the San Bernardino and Little San Bernardino Mountains. The area has been growing apples and other crops for over 150 years, however the Native Americans have benefitted from the bounty of acorns and fresh mountain streams for a thousand years. The Cauhilla and Serano Tribes harvested acorns and leached them in the streams to draw out the tannins.

Though the surrounding area has grown exponentially, Oak Glen remains largely unchanged and quite rural. Several of the original ranches are still in operation and apple season is still the biggest draw in the area. Oak Glen is home to many antique varieties of apples that are no longer commercially produced. This area is also home to some of the last operational cider mills in Southern California, producing unpasteurized and unfiltered raw apple cider.

In the past Oak Glen grew apples mainly for export, however in the 1940s several ranches began selling at roadside stands directly to the consumer. In recent years the export trade has all but disappeared and the apple season has become a time for families to visit and get their fruit directly from the growers.

Several of the ranches and orchards have been in operation since the 1860’s and 1870’s and tend apple trees that have been growing for over 100 years! Aside from apples, apple dishes, picking apples there are other things to do in the mountain community.

Throughout the glen one finds a common theme of historical preservation, from the ever present antiques and traditional costumes to elaborate reenactments of historical periods. It is possible in one day to catch a fish, milk a goat, watch a pig race, see a marionette show and many folk music artists, pick whatever crop is currently in season, and (in season) make your own cider all the way from a bushel of apples to the gallon jug.
Although tourism has undoubtedly become a permanent factor in the Oak Glen economy, commercialism has not spoiled the flavor of the glen.

As one gradually gains altitude along the two lane road from Yucaipa that twines about the ranches, one occasionally passes a horse drawn carriage or a tractor tending the fields. You will pass numerous orchards and ranches, each one unique and making and interesting stop.

Before leaving the glen's east side and continuing onward to Beaumont, one passes the two Riley ranches, Riley's Farm and Riley's Log Cabin. Each of these ranches, in a friendly rivalry between two brothers, besides offering berry, apple, and pumpkin picking during their respective seasons, has a general store. They also offer historical reenactments: Revolutionary War Field Trips, Civil War Field Trips, California History Tours, and Wild West Picnics. Acres of pumpkin patch stretch up the hill from Riley's Farm in October and November for visitors to pick from. Special events include quilting shows and demonstrations, and barn dances. Also along this area is another landmark orchard Los Rios Rancho, which has been owned and operated by the Rivers family since 1906. Enjoy fresh cider and pie in the bakery, then head down the hill to the tasting room for a sample of locally made wine. The ranch is also home to restored historic buildings, and there are a number of hiking trails. These trails begin by some of the historic building including a one-room schoolhouse museum which is free to visitors.

So if you are in the Los Angeles Area in the fall time and looking for a nice day trip on a “Road less traveled” and step back in time, Oak Glen is a wonderful destination to capture the feeling of a time long gone and the fall harvest season.

 
Historic San Diego PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Friday, 05 October 2007

I’ve been to San Diego more than any other city outside of Los Angeles over the years. I’ve always had a fondness for San Diego and is probably one of my favorite cities in California. Thereis always so much to see and do there and the city just has a really good vibe. Of course one of the big tourist destinations down there is the San Diego Zoo which I have been to. This week, I actually had a business conference to attend in San Diego but decided to do a little “off the beaten path” while I was down there and visited four destinations on this trip! I’m sure that there will be future postings of the many things in San Diego to see and do.

Little Italy

Driving in to town I stopped at Little Italy. Little Italy's throughout the United States have symbolized the tremendous contributions Italians have made to this country. Unfortunately, many of these historically established business districts are disappearing before our eyes. These Little Italy's are either declining due to growth of other adjacent ethnic neighborhoods or are a shadow of their former glory due to the dispersion of Italian families from these districts.

Little Italy in San Diego is different. A stable ethnic business and residential community since the 1920's, Little Italy today represents Downtown San Diego’s oldest continuous neighborhood business district. At one time, more than 6,000 Italian families lived in Little Italy and toiled to build San Diego into the center of the world tuna industry.

With the decline of the tuna industry on the West Coast and the destruction of 35% of Little Italy due to the construction of Interstate 5, Little Italy suffered nearly thirty years of decline. In the early 1990's, established property owners and family run business owners decided to take their fate into their own hands.

Today San Diego’s Little Italy is on the brink of rebuilding its greatness. New Italian American and non-Italian business owners alike are seeking retail and professional space. Creative builders and architects are building beautiful new developments and the local redevelopment agency is funding more than three million in street improvements on the main commercial corridor, India street. The Little Italy Association has aggressive plans to bring the story of Little Italy to its visitors through public art displays. Little Italy, San Diego is serving as a model for the handful of Little Italys remaining throughout the country.

I toured around the main drag of India street visiting some of the shops, art studios and cafés and ended my tour at Philippis Pizza Grotto a “landmark” in the neighborhood.

Vincent and Madeleine De Philippis brought their version of the American Dream. Both came to America in 1922. Vincent from Italy, Madeleine from France. They met in New York, fell in love, married in 1925 and soon settled in Philadelphia. In 1950 they moved to San Diego. Here they open a deli grocery on India Street - "Filippi's cash and carry," the cornerstone of the future successful family restaurants. Today it is still a family operation - with their seven children and even their grandchildren taking an active role in the business. The ambiance and décor made me feel like I was in Italy once again while the Pizza I ordered “The Special” was delicious with lots of cheese and meat!

Waterfront Embarcadero District

The following day my destinations was the Waterfront or Embarcadero District. San Diego is a city of different flavors and topography. But it is, first and foremost, a waterfront city. And what better way to take in the essence of the city than to take a walking tour of the downtown waterfront. The skyline, saltwater, gentle breeze and colorful sights all lend to a leisurely and interesting walk along the central part of San Diego Bay.

I began my self-guided walking tour at the foot of Broadway, at the Broadway Pier. A pay parking lot is located a block away, as well as numerous coin meter spaces along Harbor Drive. For those taking public transit, the San Diego Trolley stops at the Santa Fe Railroad Station a couple of blocks away. For those staying in downtown hotels, the Broadway Pier is a short walk away.

The first thing I noticed is the pier itself, which is often used for special events and where visiting ships often dock. Also located at the pier are several points of departures for the various Harbor Excursion tours as well as the passenger ferry to Coronado across the bay.

North from Broadway Pier

Walking north past the harbor tours, I approached the Cruise Ship Terminal, where the massive international cruise ships make their ports o' call to San Diego. I wanted to check this out as my next cruise in January will be leaving from this port and I have never embarked from this port.

Just north of the Cruise Ship Terminal is the majestic Star of India, an historic, tall-masted iron ship which dates back to 1863. This national historic landmark is the world's oldest ship still seaworthy, and makes a sea journey at least once a year. In this area of the Embarcadero are the three other ships which comprise the San Diego Maritime Museum: the Berkeley, a Victorian-era ferryboat; the Medea, a 1904 steam yacht; and the Pilot, a 1914 guide boat. A nominal admission fee is required to board the boats.

At this point, if you look across the bay, you'll see the North Island Naval Air Station, where the U.S. Navy ports its large aircraft carriers and fighter jets. Looking back across Harbor Drive, you'll see the historic County Administration Building. You'll also notice pleasure craft sailing on the bay.

South from Broadway Pier

As you walk south from Broadway Pier, you'll approach Navy Pier, where Navy ships often dock and conduct free tours for the public. Navy Pier is also the new museum home of the aircraft carrier, Midway. As you continue walking, you'll pass several Navy buildings.

Continue on and you'll approach several small green spaces, as well as the popular Fish Market Restaurant. You might want to take a short break and grab a drink and snack and enjoy the scenic view. Although no longer, this area of the waterfront not long ago used to be the home of one of the largest tuna fleets in the world. Most commercial ships are gone, but you can still feel the aura of the old fishermen.

Heading farther south, you'll head towards Seaport Village, a popular shopping and dining complex on the waterfront. Here you can browse the dozens of shops, take a ride on the carousel, or just watch the people around you. Seaport Village is also a perfect spot to grab a relaxing meal from a number of fine restaurants and food stands.

Seaport Village is built on landfill over Punta de los Muertos (Point of the Dead) where the Spanish expedition of 1782 buried those who had died of scurvy. In later years it was a railroad yard where goods and other products were unloaded from ships and loaded aboard trains for shipment east. Seaport Village broke ground in 1978 and opened in 1980.

After browsing around the numerous shops of Seaport village I headed to the adjacent Embarcadero Marina Park where you can enjoy the open green space, views of Coronado across the bay and the yacht marina of the neighboring Hyatt and Marriott towers. Just a short walk past the two hotels is the San Diego Convention Center, with its distinctive "sail" rooftop. Since I was here on a business conference this was my primary destination for the day.

Gaslamp Quarter

After my day’s activities at the convention center I walked over to the historical Gaslamp Quarter. I had visited it before but never got to spend adequate time there. It is a hustling and bustling area primarily along Fifth Avenue.

The Gaslamp Quarter of San Diego-Center is a major reason that tourists flock to San Diego.  The 16.5 block neighborhood is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and contains 94 structures that are historically and architecturally significant. The district now houses over 70 restaurants and nightclubs as well as movie theaters, shops, offices, galleries, apartments and lofts.  There are over 350 businesses in the Quarter.

The area has had many names over the years--Rabbitville, Flea Town, New Town San Diego, Davis Folly, Stingaree, Chinatown and SOB (South of Broadway).  Alonzo Horton built a wharf at the foot of Fifth Avenue and promoted the area as the business district for his new town. The district's fortunes rose and fell according to San Diego's prosperity.  It's reputation as an unsavory, lawless red-light was well-earned during several periods of its history.  Ultimately though the area just slid into disrepair and decay.

As bad as that was for San Diego at the time, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise.  With no money available to redo the buildings, a number of beautiful Victorian commercial buildings survived intact.  In 1982, the area became a major redevelopment project for the City of San Diego.  Developers and restoration experts were encouraged to purchase and redevelop these buildings for reuse as restaurants, galleries, offices, lofts and apartments.  The old-fashioned gaslamps have been restored and wide brick sidewalks encourage  strolling and sidewalk dining.

Many of the buildings in the Gaslamp are over a 100 years old and styles include Classical Revival, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Modern, Oriental, Spanish, Baroque and Italian Baroque Revival styles.  The eclectic mix of styles makes the streetscape a delight for the eye especially for the viewer who remembers to look up.  The details include stained glass windows, corbels, moldings, carvings, railings and more, much of it painted bright colors, Architects include such notables as Irving Gill, the Reid Brothers (Hotel Dell Coronado) and William Templeton Johnson.

The Gaslamp Quarter Historical Foundation is "curator" of the Gaslamp Quarter and works to promote and preserve the historical integrity of the district. The Foundation offers walking tours of the district each Saturday and other educational programs that raise community awareness of the uniqueness of the Quarter.  The Foundation uses the historic William Heath Davis House as its headquarters.  The house is the oldest wooden structure standing in San Diego, and it has never been modified or electrified.  The house is open for guided tours.

Today the GasLamp Quarter is a successful redevelopment project that attracts tourists and locals to its cafes, nightlife and unique shopping.  The area hosts a Mardi Gras celebration that is beginning to rival New Orleans and Street Scene, one of the biggest live-music festivals in California.

 

OLD TOWN SAN DIEGO

After my conference it was time to head back up to Los Angeles. On the way home I stopped at Old Town San Diego which admittedly I have been to numerous times before but with my love of history and architecture is one of my favorite spots in San Diego.

Old Town San Diego is considered the "birthplace" of California. San Diego is the site of the first permanent Spanish settlement in California. It was here in 1769, that Father Junipero Serra came to establish the very first mission in a chain of 21 missions that were to be the cornerstone of California’s colonization. Father Serra’s mission and Presidio were built on a hillside overlooking what is currently known as Old Town San Diego. At the base of the hill in 1820’s, a small Mexican community of adobe buildings was formed and by 1835 had attained the status of El Pueblo de San Diego. In 1846, a U.S. Navy Lieutenant and a Marine Lieutenant, raised the American flag in the Old Town San Diego Plaza.

In 1968, the State of California Department of Parks and Recreation established Old Town State Historic Park to preserve the rich heritage that characterized San Diego during the 1821 to 1872 period. The park includes a main plaza, exhibits, museums and living history demonstrations.

Historic buildings include La Casa de Estudillo, La Casa de Bandini, La Casa de Altamirno Pedrorena and the Mason Street School, San Diego’s first one room schoolhouse. Just up the hill from Old Town San Diego Historic State Park, you’ll find Heritage Park where several of San Diego’s most notable Victorian homes have been relocated and authentically restored to their original splendor. Just a short walk down San Diego Avenue is the Whaley House, an officially designated haunted house, the Little Adobe Chapel on Conde Street, the first Church in Old Town San Diego and El Campo Santo on San Diego Avenue, a 1850 Catholic Cemetery.

The Old Town District occupies nine square blocks and preserves many historic structures including five built of adobe (mud) bricks. Other buildings include California's first schoolhouse, a blacksmith shop, the state's first newspaper office and a stable. These preserved buildings, each a small museum in itself, give a glimpse of life here from 1821 to 1872.

Interspersed between museum buildings, you'll find shops, with emphasis on Mexican-style pottery, tinwork and the like. There are plenty of restaurants and modern stores such as book stores, art galleries, and novelty shops interspersed as well. As always I enjoyed my stroll not only through the stores but through the historic architecture and am sure I will visit yet again in the near future.

So even though this was primarily a business trip I made sure to squeeze in some historical and tourist time and insured another great trip to San Diego, one of many trip to come.

 

 

Last Updated ( Friday, 05 October 2007 )
 
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