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Guatemala City and back to LAX |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Friday, 08 April 2005 |
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Hello I am at the Guatemala airport and this internet shop closes in 15 minutes and yet I have an hour before I board the plane. Well, last night...Flavio called and was going to be late about 3 hours so I ended up hanging out with Marcin who was from Poland...so needless to say we struck up a conversation about Poland, my family there, my trips there and the loss of the pope since the pope was more than just a spiritual leader for Poland but an icon of hope. Flavio picked me up and we went back to his `place in Guatemala City. I felt better...not sure if it was the prayer to Santo Hermano Pedro or the manzanilla tea. I went to bed. This morning we woke up and I went to the airport and checked in and got my bags checked in so I wouldn’t have to carry it around all day. It was hotter than hell today...the worst of the whole trip. Flavio took me to see Guatemala City...the cathedral, national palace. We then visited a few museums...the catholic museum which had the pope mobile the pope used when he came here to visit. We then went to the museum of Mayan culture, the museum of modern art and the museum of archaeology. Each one different but unique. Flavio then took me to a really nice Guatemalan restaurant but then took me to the airport where I sat outside on the curb heaving it all up! Sorry for the graphic. I then had a 7 up and feel back to normal now! What a trip.....it has been so great and so eye opening. It is fun to sit in the airport and people watch...all the life stories, hopes, tragedies....And there is always a sadness when I leave a country because I know that people I have met along the way...the chances are we will never cross paths again....but it was nice to know them and have our paths cross if even only for a few days. Which I guess is true about all of life...the coming and going of people, the touching and the passing. There’s a bitter sweetness in that. I was sitting in the airport thinking of Mauricio from Italy, Cesar from Peru, Daniel from San Luis Potosi, Diego in San Salvador, and the host of other back packers I have met...and will never see again. Well, the shop is about to close and I better get ready to board. I should be in Los Angeles about 1 am...and then customs, etc. which that could be a problem I am told because I never got a passport stamp to Guatemala...only and entry and exit stamp in El Salvador and from what I have been told...I’ve been in Guatemala illegally for the last week!!! So we shall see. Well, take care! |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Thursday, 07 April 2005 |
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Well, this morning I woke up with a killer stomach ache and all the ails that go with that...to spare details. I went to the pharmacy and they said I had dysentery which I didn’t even know what that meant....just means a bad case of the runs do to uncleanliness. I had to check out of my hotel at 11 am...so I started wondering around the city of Antigua. I felt pretty weak and it was very hot and humid today and I couldn’t eat anything only water. But in spite of that...I went to the market, then to La Merced..the first church in Guatemala...but was destroyed in 1563 so I saw the old ruins and the new church. Beautiful. I then sat to recover a bit in central park and then walked a ways to Church of St. Francis...beautiful. Same story..built in 1544 and then destroyed a few years later in an earthquake and rebuilt but the original ruins are awesome. Plus the body of ST. Pedro the patron saint of Guatemala is there and it was touching to see all the people ferverently pray for health. They have a whole wall where people have left their crutches, canes, wheel chairs, and pictures of love ones that were cured. After that I went to the metropolitan cathedral and ruins also very beautiful. But I was feeling pretty weak from not eating..So I stopped at a cafe and had Manzanilla tea which seemed to help a bit (that’s an herbal trick I learned in Peru)!!! After that I was able to eat an ice cream sandwich and Gatorade! lol So now I am killing a little time...Flavio will pick me up at 6 pm tonight and take me back to his place in Guatemala City. We may go out tonight to the clubs depending on how I feel. Tomorrow I will see historic Guatemala City. And be at the airport at 5 pm...My flight is at 8 pm and I get back to LA at 12:45 AM Sunday...which I am not fond of arriving in the middle of the night. So this may be my last email until I get back. Oh, and I found out today...Guatemala has not had a kidnapping or bus robbery for 56 days!! They are trying to go for some record for the most days of no violent crimes. The last one was in December...and I guess 3 years ago...a busload of American students were robbed and raped and the US was so disturbed by it they cut off aid to Guatemala. Well, take care |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Wednesday, 06 April 2005 |
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Well, again I had insomnia last night. I was awake at 3 am. I then caught the 7 am bus to Chichicastanago for the huge market. The road was even more treacherous but the driver was better but it took us 4 hours to get there! It was definitely a site to see but a bit overwhelming and crowded. The area is known for it weaving handmade and it was not cheap...even bargaining it was expensive so I spent more than I should have. The Mayan people looked so beautiful in the native costumes. Though it is sad to see the children working so hard when they should be in school and then I wrestle with getting a "good" deal but then realizing that its taking advantage of poor people. I left Chichi at 3 pm and got back to Antigua about 5pm. I actually feel pretty good tonight so I am going out for coffee, hang out in the town square and grab a bit to eat. Tomorrow I will hang out in Antigua all day until the evening when I will return back to Guatemala city for my last night :( Unfortunately, there were no wild boars today, or loco bus drivers, or erupting volcanoes! :( It’s been a great trip so far and often people ask why I pick the places I go or why I do crazy things like climb and active volcano. I guess because when I travel it takes me to the basis of my spirituality...live for today...the present is the most important moment, the most important thing is the connections and time we spend with other people, people come and go in our life but each encounter was supposed to happen. And most importantly, I will die someday...maybe tonight...5 years, 10 years, 50 years...but the fact is that this life will be over and I do not want to be on my death bed regretting thing I did not do. Rarely do I regret something I have done...I usually regret that which I have not done. Ok....I’ll quit my existential soapbox now. Hope all is well. Take care.Remember....cada dia mejor! each day better! |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Tuesday, 05 April 2005 |
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Hi...well, I though after climbing that volcano I would fall asleep....I could not sleep at all last night. But I kept thinking of Volcan Pacaya and how it nearly made me cry and I had to laugh....I was like one of those girls on The Great Race when they get hysterical cuz they can't go on. AT any rate, I didn’t sleep very well. While yesterday may have been the hardest day...today was the scariest. I caught the 8 am bus for Panajachel on Lake Atitlan. The next 3 hours proved to be hell...it was the steepest, windiest, narrowest road I have been on....which wouldn’t have been so bad except that the bus driver was crazy.... swerving, speeding, the brakes squealing and I swore the bus was going to tip over any moment. I am so serious....I really and truly was scared something bad was going to happen and I started thing...I don’t have any contact information on me if I die..They wont know whom to call, and I even started praying.... that catholic in me came out!!! Thankfully I did not get sick but my arms were soar from holding on so tight. We arrived in Panajachel and it was beautiful...the lake, the 3 or 4 volcanoes that surround it, the native Mayan people selling their wares. Absolutely gorgeous....it did capture my heart. I went to the reserve and hike alone which was kind of scary....monkeys, a butterfly farm, and then some sort of wild boar chased me for a while...but I got a great pic!!!! It is unnerving to hike alone in the jungle. I then met two Australians and hung out with them and had dinner and am about to head back to my room. I have to admit...tonight I feel pretty tired, run down, sore, achy and I am concerned about the cuts on my hand from falling down the volcano...I keep it clean and put antibiotic cream on it but the one looks like it might be infected and is very painful...so I am going to keep a close eye on it. Tomorrow I am going to Chichistanango which is in my 1000 place to see before you die book. It is one of the largest markets in Central America....so I hope to do a lot of my shopping there. The market is only on Thursday and Sunday so I kind of have to do it tomorrow! |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Monday, 04 April 2005 |
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Well, after I wrote my last email...I walked around Antigua and visited some churches, the main square, relaxed a little, had lunch and then embarked on the most difficult thing I had ever done. I now know ignorance is bliss.I had signed up for the $5 volcano tour...I thought they would drive us to the crater we would look at some smoke and then go. WRONG.There were 11 of us...and they drove us up to 2500 meters (about 7,000 feet) We then had hike over 1,000 feet up!! It was the most strenuous hike I have ever done in my entire life. I thought my heart was going to explode. And the worst part was near he top....it was all loose gravel and it was I am not exaggerating about an 80% incline...it was like going straight up. I kept slipping and everyone in our group was 18 and I thought this 36 year old is gonna do it. I struggled so hard I started to tear up fearing I couldn’t make it. But I dug real deep and thought if I don’t do it now...I may never do it. Then as we approached the top I heard the rumble and the smoke of sulfur engulfed me and as you reached the peak...there it was in all of its glory...an active volcano....it kept burping up lava and rumbling and I was only about 200 feet from it...occasionally it would have a big burp and rocks would hit us. I have to admit...I was in awe but scared as hell. Our guide said that in the last month the volcano has become very active and grown and that the government is going to shut the trail down in the next month for fear of a larger eruption not catastrophic but large enough to shut the trails down. Of course...what goes up must come down and I have more trouble coming down than going up especially with that loose gravel. I fell several time and I did take one nasty fall and have several cuts on my hands. Luckily I brought antiseptic. It took us 6 hours non stop to do this hike and when it was all over....I felt proud, in awe, overwhelmed, a bit scared. This was my first time seeing lava an explosions!!! INCREDIBLE and I kept up with the 18 year olds!!! I got back to my hostel and had to shower I looked like I worked in a coal mine...covered in soot and ash. I think I will sleep well tonight!!! I’m gonna have dinner now with two college girls from Canada that were on the hike. Tomorrow I am off to lake Atitlan and Panajachel!!! |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Sunday, 03 April 2005 |
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Hi...its 9 am here and I just arrived in Antigua. Sorry I did not get a chance to write yesterday. Lets see...after Flavio picked me up Sunday night we went back to his place and it was like night and day compared to the last few days. He lives in a gated community in a 2 story condo..It was beautiful and it only cost $50K to buy!!! After I got freshened up he took me out to dinner...we went to a nice Nicaraguan restaurant. He is actually Nicaraguan but escaped the war to Kansas! where he lived for 2 years, then moved to Honduras and now in Guatemala for 10 years. Very interesting person. I did not get to be until 11 pm and I had to wake up at 4 am Monday I woke up at 4 am and he drove me to the airport where I caught a 6:30 am flight to Tikal...an hour flight. There I got off and met up with my tour Guide David. What an incredible day. The tour consisted of me, the guide David and Corina..who has lived in Boston for 18 years but was born in Guatemala but never saw Tikal. Our guide was a great guy...19 years old but very smart and totally into environment and ecology and knowledgeable about Mayan culture. Tikal was incredible...and I can now say I prefer Tikal over Machu Picchu. The ruins are incredible and it is in the middle of the jungle! We saw crocodiles, spiders, lizards, snakes, toucans, monkey, lemurs and all kind of birds! The way the ruins tower above the jungle canopy is incredible and I climbed to the top of every one of them!!! Corina was great company and I know have a new friend in Boston. After 6 hours of hiking in the jungle the three of us had a late lunch and then we had to catch the 5:30 flight back to Guatemala City. I got back to Guatemala City and Flavio picked me up and we went out to Dinner and then went to see the Pope vigil which was very interesting! I got home about 9:30 and passed out! This morning I woke up at 6 am and Flavio drove me to Antigua and I just got here and got a room for the night and reserved a sport for a 1 pm tour of Pacaya...the most active volcano here with lava flows and everything. So after I finish this...going to the bank, cafe, walk a little and then go on the 8-hour volcano tour for only $5. Tomorrow, Thursday and Friday I am just playing by ear and Friday night Flavio is picking me up in Antigua to head back to Guatemala. |
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Nicaragua & Honduras 
